01 May Brows are the New Black: Brow Makeup Tutorial
Brows are the New Black!
Wow, it’s been a long time since I’ve written for my blog and I have so much to say. Seeing as brows are the hot beauty item of this last year and now for spring and summer, I want to show you an awesome brow make-up tutorial that will redefine your face, your look.
Obviously, we know brows can define the face, allowing you to appear younger, thinner, more svelte, elegant, sporty, sexy, boho, etc. And all this can be modified as fashions change or the mood strikes you. Me, personally, I’m always on the quest to look more angular and of course more youthful. So, I keep my brows shapely, with a strong arch that is pulled away from the center of the face to pull my eyes out and make them appear wider and larger. Well, as fashions have changed I’ve started to change my brows. I’m trying to lower the arch and make them a little thicker. It’s a challenge because I had bits of them lasered off. :/ So, MAKEUP TO THE RESCUE!
This tutorial is written with my mother in mind. She needs hyper detailed instructions and is looking for a filled in, full, not contrived, brow. SO, take what you want from this.
This is the way I do my brows. Some people start with the tails, other people use a stencil. I actually do like using a stencil, but most of them are kind of thin and the fashion now is a little bolder and wider, so the stencils aren’t working as well on everyone now. I hope this helps you!
1.) Start with clean, waxed and/or tweezed brows in a shape that is the best for you.
We’ll go into those shapes later but remember, if you don’t have hair in a certain place we’re going to add brow powder to create the shape.
2.) I do my brows after I’ve applied foundation, contoured, applied blush and highlighter. After all that, I feel like I have a “clean” palette and I’m ready to apply my makeup.
3.) I use an angled brush. I LOVE the Women’s Empowderment Brush from The Balm, and their
BrowPow in either Blonde, Light Brown, or Dark Brown. Now that I’m adding blonde highlights to my hair, I use the Blonde BrowPow because it is sort of a cool Taupe color. The Light Brown is a warmer tone. I don’t recommend a brow pencil for beginners because there is less room for error. Powder allows you room to make mistakes and gradually add color as opposed to the hard line of a pencil.
4.) Swipe your brush onto the powder once or twice and be sure to dab it on your hand to remove any excess residue.
5.) Using the short side of the angle brush, draw a line from the start of the bottom of the brow just in between the eyes to the bottom of the arch. This should be one straight-ish line. It can curve a little but no hard edges. I draw a perfectly straight line, because I feel the brow width should be uniform from the front until the arch. The underside of your arch should be just above the outside of your pupil. This is your stopping point for your line on the bottom of the brow. Keep the line soft.
6.) Then do the top of the brow. Draw a line of soft powder from the start of the top of the brow in
between the eyes to the tip of the arch. Again, this line should be a straight line. No hard edges. And again, I like it when the width of the brow is uniform from the front to the arch.
If you don’t have any hair in certain places or your brow hair is too unruly, just draw these top and bottom lines where your brow should be. You’ll want to tweeze any hairs outside this area. If you are creating a brow from nothing, just fake it! Since I am growing my brows to be thicker, I have areas where my brow hair is still really short and sporadic. Just draw your line where you want the outside lines to be. Keep the line soft and straight.
7.) Now fill it in softly with little brush strokes of powder. Remember, less is more. You can add more, but it’s hard to take away. In places where you have no hair, you’ll need to dab the color onto the skin. I have to dab the color on the underside of the brow to fill in above my line. This makes my brows look thicker and fuller.
8.) I don’t like the front portion of my brow to be too dark. So, next I gently make little dashes upward at the front of the brow. I don’t draw a line at the front and I keep it pretty light and use the overflow from the rest of the brow to naturally shape that part.
9.) I choose to do my “tails” last. Gently swipe the brush downward at an angle following your brow bone. I do this just a couple times to get the color right. It should end in a little soft point so lift the brush up as you swipe it downward.
10.) Use a disposable mascara wand to brush the hairs to remove any excess bits of pigment and to soften portions that are too dark.
11.) Next use a damp q-tip to smooth the edge of the brow and clean up any parts where the pigment has gone too high or low.
You could choose to be done now. However, I like to keep going to really define the brows if I have time.
12.) I use a precise brush and add a thin, very light, line of the whitest foundation that is sold. I make that line just along the bottom edge of the brow hairs and smooth it downward into the area where you might wear eye shadow. This acts as a highlighter on your brow bone even more.
13.) Then I take my concealer or foundation and do the same thing above the brow shape. Make a thin and very light line of foundation in your normal skin color just above the brow hairs to define and smooth out the whole brow shape. Brush upward away from the brow with your precise brush so the line isn’t visible.
DONE! You now have fabulous and amazing brows! Seriously, if you don’t have any hairs in certain places, don’t fret. Remember that while you are scrutinizing yourself, no one else is. It is totally fine if you have brow powder on your skin in place of brow hair. Make-up is all an illusion. In some cases, you’re creating something from nothing. And that’s fine too!
Of course, there is now another cure for no brow hair. BROW EXTENSIONS to the rescue! I will blog about this soon. As a teaser, Julie and I are both now certified in Brow Extensions. We are still practicing and preparing to take clients soon. This is AMAZINGLY EXCITING as we are literally giving people darker, more defined brows with little tiny hairs attached to the skin and brow hair. WOW!!